Last weekend I was invited to spend the weekend at the farm of Wang Xiangfeng [Jessica], one of the students from the ECIT North Campus. I met her and Hong Ruxian at the front gate of the college on Saturday morning, expecting to walk to the long distance bus station just 10 minutes away. Instead we spent 15 minutes in a taxi reaching another long distance bus station. The bus was the usual 16 seater and this took us to Nanfeng. So far so good. Then Jessica told us we had to catch another bus to reach her village which was another 30 minute ride. At the village we were introduced to her sister-in-law, brother, uncle and a few other relatives and had lunch at her sister-in-law’s house. Altogether there were 8 people living there.
After lunch we got on board two motorbikes and set off on the last stage of the trip to her village. About half the bike trip was on paved roads, the rest was on dirt tracks.
The village was similar to the one I visited in Guangdong in 2003 but much poorer. Every house in the Guangdong village was a decent house, though some were better than others; in Hangshan [Jessica’s village] there was only one good house, and some were worse than others. The Guangdong farmers had found their niche and were making money, the Hangshan farmers were getting by.
On Saturday afternoon we went out into the woods on the hillsides to collect yang mei fruit [bay-berries, in English]. I had seen these things on the markets but never eaten them. They grow wild on large trees [about 20 metres high] and are hard work to collect. The trees were on very steep hillsides covered in thick undergrowth and having found a suitable tree someone had to climb it. While up in the tree you looked across the woods to spot the next possible tree; finding them from the ground level would have been very slow work. There were four of us in the party, Jessica, a young man, and Hong Ruxian and we might have managed 3 kilograms between us – not a lot. Thinking of how much they would sell for on the market we would have just managed to feed ourselves. In addition to the the cost in time there are other costs to take into account; every one of us was filthy on returning to the farmhouse so all our clothing had to be washed, we collected a number of cuts and bruises from slips and falls on the slopes and received a few stings from airborne insects.
In the evening we went out walking the tracks, I’m not sure why as there is no street lighting and finding your way around in pitch blackness isn’t easy. But what made it worthwhile for me was the fireflies which I had never seen before. Although Hangshan is only a short distance from Fuzhou the difference in conditions is enough to permit these insects to exist. Jessica caught a few and put them in jar and to use as a lantern which was surprisingly effective. But then, after a long enough period of darkness your eyes begin to adjust and the retina uses its ‘night vision’ cells.
On Sunday morning we had a similar fruit-picking expedition but much closer to the farm. I don’t know the name of the fruit, only that it was green, the size of a plum, with a very hard skin similar to a gooseberry and it had a large stone in the middle. And it was bitter to taste.
At lunch time I was invited to try my hand at cooking in the farmhouse kitchen, This was something of a challenge as the cooking range was wood-fired, the cooking pans were bigger and fixed in place and the cooking tools were different to those I had used at home. All the food was home-grown and freshly picked – there was no fridge-freezer in Jessica’s home – and one of the vegetables I was told to cook was new to me. But the result was passable.
The return journey on Sunday afternoon was the reverse of the outward trip and took about 4 hours overall, but the distance was probably less than 150 km.